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 Apparently I screwed up.... 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 1:43 pm
Posts: 26
Location: Central Ca.
I guess I violated some sort of forum etiqutte or something.

I thought that I would come here for advise from those who've been there and save myself some grief.

I see econoline pickups posted that have been lowered and yet when I being up the subject of lowering my truck the silence is deafening.

I am new to the forum thing and maybe I am going about it there some butt I need to kiss or something before I ask for help?

So it seems that I am on my own. I will not let that stop me. I am going to build a truck as I see fit, lower it if I like, whatever. I guess I will have to use the old trial and error methodology. :? Bye


Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:43 pm

Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:04 pm
Posts: 4
Location: San Diego
I wouldn't give up on this forum. It has great people and help. I just think not to many people have lowered econoline trucks and vans. The ones I have seen have been completely hacked. I'm looking into lowering mine and have had no luck anywhere with info, so I'm doing the same trial and error. If I find some info out I will post it here. You should do the same. Thats how forums work. One person finds a new way of doing things then helps others. If we all gave up, none of us would have any help. So I guess what I'm saying is , stick around, it's people like you and me that make up forums.

Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:21 am

Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:05 am
Posts: 9
Location: Gibbons, Alberta
I have a 65 P/U with 13 inch wheels on it which makes it pretty low. I'm interested in lowering it some more and I haven't got a clue what works and what doesn't but I'm going to just go ahead and experiment. I'll refer back to here and even if I don't find what I'm looking for I always find something.

repeat over and over "I don't want a mantra."

Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:13 pm

Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:53 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Venice Fl
You guys might want to start with the tried and true "old school" tricks. For the rear, lowering blocks will get you more drop than you can safely use, and you will have to raise the bump stops. (don't eliminate them) A watts link setup will tighten up the side to side slop inherent in a semi eliptic suspension, and greatly improve high speed (highway) handling. (our beloved "flyin' bricks" never were known for thier corner carving abilities, but they can be improved greatly with modern coil over gas charged shocks.) Take careful measurements of full suspension travel, after the drop, and hit the shock catolog at the local NAPA store for correct length, dampening and lift, based on weight and travel, not application. ( My local NAPA is the only parts house in the area that still has real books, with real parts guy's, that know how to read them. Monroe has all the data availible on thier web site, but it can be difficult to decipher. Pick the one you think best, then call the tech line, try to talk to a real hotrod guy, the "order takers" may not be as smart as you are...
For the front, the same tricks apply, but pay attention to the angle of the steering arm and pitman arm. Both should be parelell to the ground (through the arc of travel) at rest, and as close to the center of travel (up and down) as possible. if either one is at an angle or in a bind, bump steer, wandering or brake divie will result. (as with all things "ackerman" theory is perfect but seldom achieved) This condition can be reduced with wedge shims to change the king pin inclination. trial and error will work but access to a good front end guy (one who has experience with straight/drop axle suspension, if you can find one, will speed up the process) Remember, it ain't magic... it's method. RED

Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:43 am
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